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Features kiwi pruning

The kiwi pruning technique

The kiwi pruning technique is similar to the better known one of the vine. Proper pruning is essential for a balanced growth of the plant and to increase the quantity and quality of the fruit, favoring a correct balance between vegetative development and production. Also for the Kiwi we can distinguish between an initial breeding pruning, which serves to give the desired shape to the plant, and the subsequent production pruning, which is performed starting from the third year to rejuvenate the plant and guarantee the formation of the fruits. Kiwi production pruning is performed both in winter, while the plant is in a state of rest, and in summer (green pruning). The cutting equipment must produce clean cuts (yes to scissors and shears, no hacksaws), and be disinfected at the end of the operations,

Farm pruning


Kiwi is a very vigorous climbing shrub: it needs a sturdy support, which can be a sufficiently solid wall, pergola or grating, with vertical and horizontal iron wires to tie the branches to. The breeding pruning involves the first 2-3 years from the planting; the most popular and popular forms are the pergola or awning ones. The first year, once the plant has been planted, it is pruned so as to leave the most vigorous shoot, or astone, which is tied to a vertical stake and topped. It is necessary to leave at least two buds on the stem: in the second year these will produce two main branches, or cords, from which the shoots that will produce the fruits will then branch off. The cords will need to be folded horizontally in opposite directions about two meters high and tied to the threads.

Production pruning: winter pruning


Production pruning is carried out mainly in the winter period: the ideal period is after winter, in February-March, as soon as it is certain that there will be no more severe frosts. Older branches and those that have already fruited the previous year should be cut near the base, leaving only a dormant bud near the stem. The one-year-old branches, which will bear fruit in the current year, shorten leaving 4 to 6 buds, so that the plant does not bear fruit too far from the stem, weakening. All too dense, intertwined or diseased branches are eliminated, as well as any suckers formed at the base of the plant. When pruning, the female (fruiting) plants must be thinner than the male ones (pollinators).

Features kiwi pruning: Summer workers


Starting from the end of spring it may be useful to carry out the so-called green pruning, which has different purposes: it favors the circulation of pollen; reduces the vegetative vigor of the plant, increasing fruit production; ensures light and air, in order to reduce the risk of fungal diseases and stimulate early ripening. It can be divided into three interventions, carried out at a distance of one month from each other. The first intervention is carried out a few weeks before flowering, by sprouting the shoots above the last floral button and shortening the too vigorous shoots to 2-3 buds. The second operation is carried out post-flowering: the strongest shoots are sprouted, with and without flowers. To improve the final quality of the fruit, it is also possible to thin out the excess floral buttons. The third surgery takes place in July,

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