The graft of the lemon

Lemon grafting methods

The lemon accepts almost all grafting methods: cleft, simple or double English, cadillac, scudetto, crown. To be successful in grafting the lemon, two constraints must be respected: attention to desiccation, so it is essential to protect the transplant against dehydration. It will be covered with a freeze-type plastic bag or other form of protection. The ideal ones would be parafilm 1 or a grafting wax. The second constraint is relative to the temperature and therefore it is not necessary to operate if there is a risk of dormancy, which can be caused by an average temperature that is too low in early spring, below 12 ° C at night, or too hot in summer, above 35 ° C during the day. L’ The most common graft for the lemon is the scudetto one which takes place between May and June, preferably with the plant sheltered. In this period the tree is rich in sap and the temperature remains constant, stabilized at around 20 ° C at night. Welding will be faster under these conditions. If practiced in September, the grafting will be carried out in a protected place, in order to preserve constant heat.

The vegetative states of the branches to be grafted

We can classify the vegetative states of citrus branches into different categories. In the first, the jet is newly formed, soft as grass. It is recognized by the fact that with the simple touch of a finger it can almost be folded in half. This type of jet, too herbaceous, must not be used as a graft. In the second category, the branch is still bright green, but it has become stiff. It can be used for all citrus fruit grafts. This category will be divided into two sub-categories: in a) the branch diameter is less than 5 mm., It is difficult to transplant and the success rate is significantly lower; in b) the diameter is greater than or equal to 5 mm. and will be ideal for grafting. In the third category, gray streaks begin to be seen on the twigs, which are strongly stiffened. You can use them for lemon grafting. It is preferable that the branches to be grafted have the same appearance and the same vegetative development as the rootstock.

The rootstocks for the lemon

The rootstocks suitable for lemon are the Citrange which bears even -10 ° C, and is resistant to Tristeza; Bitter Orange, which defends itself well from Phytophthora and gummy, but is very sensitive to Tristeza and tolerates calcareous soils; the Trifoliate Orange, very rustic, perfect in an acid soil; the Citrus Volkameriana, limitedly robust, ideal in a calcareous soil. The rootstock must be about two years old. The material necessary for the grafting of the lemon will be a disinfected grafting knife, raffia and well-sharpened and disinfected shears. The grafting knife is good that it is a tool used only for this use. A good sharp knife can be useful if it engages sporadically, however a dedicated blade is preferable. The shears will be used to pick up the grafts and cut the rootstocks. They must be strong and well cleaned. The blade and counter blade must be tight to avoid unnecessarily tearing the plant and delaying healing.

The grafting of the lemon: The next stage after grafting

After grafting, the lemon must be placed in full light, but not in direct sun. He will be given water regularly. If parafilm or grafting wax has been used in the lemon graft, it will be expected that the bud penetrates into the protection, forming a herbaceous stem. In the case of the use of other protective devices, the gem must be discovered after 8, 12 days and check that the raffia is not too tight. When the bud has released a herbaceous shoot with two or three small leaves, the bindings and protections can be removed. It will take a couple of months to remove the rootstock tab, so the graft will be more resistant to disease. All shoots will need to be removed from the rootstock. If you are in a windy area,

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